Punta Uva and the southern Caribbean: Days 11 - 14

What did we do?

Day 11- Most of the day was spent making our way from Tortuguero to Punta Uva. The drive from La Pavona took about (4.5 hours). We had significant rain this day as we travelled to Punta Uva. Sometimes light showers, and at other times torrential downpours. It was a little disappointing as all of the mountains were shrouded in cloud. The traffic around the port at Limon was horrendous with hundreds of trucks in both the north and southbound lanes. At times we were at a standstill, and the heavy rain did not help. South of the port, the traffic thinned out considerably and it was an easy drive from there to Punta Uva. We checked into our accommodation at Casa Viva just before dusk, and were greeted by a nut-brown Agouti crossing the lawn.

Day 12 - Woke around 5:30 am to bird songs and howler monkeys somewhere in the distance. After breakfast we headed back up the coast 19 km to Cahuita to hike in Cahuita National Park. We paid $2 to park in a lot just at the entrance to the park at Kelly Creek. The entrance fee to the National Park is voluntary, we gave $5 per person.

We walked the entire 8 km route from the entrance at Kelly Creek in Cahuita to the entrance/exit at Peurto Vargas and then took a taxi ($6 ) back to our car in Cahuita. There is a small restaurant at the Peurto Vargas entrance and they will phone a taxi for you. You can also walk out to the road and take the public bus back to Cahuita.

The first part of the trail at the Cahuita entrance was quite crowded with people, but thinned out considerably about 1 km down the trail where we had to take off our shoes and cross Rio Surarez in order to continue on the trail. When we crossed the stream was about mid-calf deep but I have read that it can get much deeper. The trail continues to follow the coast and is fairly shaded until you reach Punta Cahuita, and then for the next couple of kilometres you are walking on a trail along the beach without much shade. Along the way there are lots of  little coves and beaches to stop and swim in. The final 2 km is along a boardwalk built about 6 ft over shallow wetlands and through dense jungle until you reach Puerto Vargas exit. Just before you enter the boardwalk portion there are some basic bathrooms and showers, much nicer ones are at the exit. Make sure you bring mosquito repellent.

Just after crossing the stream

If I was going to hike this again I would park my car at Cahuita, and then take a taxi to the Peurto Vargas entrance (mandatory $5 entrance fee at this point of entrance) and begin my hike back to Cahuita. This way by the time you get close to Cahuita you are ready to stop for a swim and there are lots of dining options at the end of your hike.

While a guide is helpful in spotting wildlife, and there is lots of wildlife here, you do not need one to navigate the park. In March there were lots of people on the trail and we never felt like we were in an isolated spot.

My Tan Feet has a good description of the hike and the park

In the park looking back to Cahuita

About 1 km from Cahuita along the trail

Near Punta Cahuita

Day 13 - In the morning we drove 4 km south to Manzanillo to hike in Gandoca - Manzanillo Refuge. The entrance fee is by donation. The suspension bridge that crosses the small stream at the start of the park was closed and so we took off our shoes and crossed in bare feet. It looks like the bridge just requires some new floor boards so it may be repaired soon.

Sloth Crossing at Punta Uva

The trail system here is not as well marked as the other parks we visited. The first kilometre or so of the trail tracks along the beach and is quite a pretty stroll beside the sea with little hint that is about to get ugly. As the trail turns inland you begin a series of steep ups and downs over muddy tree roots. The mud was extremely slippery and difficult to navigate. After about an hour, covered in mud, with the rain intensifying, I announced that I was no longer having fun. My son agreed, and so it was two against one and we all turned back. It was disappointing to turn back, as there is an exciting wild feeling in the refuge; my son just missed walking into a massive web system of five Golden Orb spiders. We took our time leaving, stopping to view the coral tide pools that had been exposed by the low tide. I was grateful for the stream crossing as we left the park and plunged in with my running shoes to wash away the dense mud that had encased me up to my ankles.

Looking back I wish we had gotten a guide for this park. The trails are not well marked, and after the first kilometre or so I was not 100% sure where we were heading; that combined with the mud discouraged me from continuing on. Having a guide might have helped me keep going; and there is a lot to see here including abundant wildlife.

Day 14 - My husband and I loved the boardwalk at Puerto Vargas (southern exit/entrance to Cahuita National Park) so much that we were back when the park opened at 8:00 am. The boardwalk is 2.1 km long stretching over wetlands and through dense rain forest. It ends at the coast, and then you walk the entire length back to the parking lot (or you could keep going 6 km to the Cahuita entrance). We spent two slow hours walking along enjoying howler monkeys, a foraging coati, lizards, and many species of birds including a Tucan. There are bathrooms at both ends of the boardwalk trail.

Looking to the south end and the headland at Punta Uva beach

After lunch and a siesta back at our cabin, we walked down Punta Uva beach to the south end, then up over the headland to Punta Uva Arrecife, the next beach south, which we walked along for a couple of kilometres. The headland trail that divides the two beaches has a short steep section at the start, and again at the end, but was thankfully free of mud and quite manageable. At the southern end of Arrecife, we saw a Sting Ray swimming in the shallows.

Where did we stay?

We stayed in at Casa Viva ($150 per night) at Punta Uva beach. The property is almost directly on the beach, separated only by a stand of trees. It contains a number of well-crafted wood cabins in a beautiful tropical garden setting. Our cabin had 2 bedrooms, a full kitchen, a living room area, a bathroom, and a wide wrap around verandah with a dining table and two hammocks. 

Looking south along Punta Uva in front of Casa Viva

Relaxing on our veranda

The beach in front of Casa Viva looking north

Where did we eat?

We had a full kitchen at Casa Viva and it was very nice to be able to cook our own breakfast and lunches. There are several large grocery stores in Puerto Viejo, and lots of fruit stands along the main road.

We had two dinners at Tasty Waves, on the southern edge of Puerto Viejo. The hamburgers, and tacos were pretty good and the french fries were excellent. 

The third night we tried Soda Riquisimo in Puerto Viejo. It had good google reviews, but we waited 45 minutes for our dinner and the food was not that great.  The price was right though, we paid about $28 for dinner for three people. 

It was my husband's birthday during our stay so we decided to splurge at El Refugio in Punta Uva. The restaurant is set in a lush tropical garden. The menu is small, but the food is excellent. The bill, with two glasses of wine and dessert came to about $120. Make sure you phone and make reservations. It is a small restaurant and we saw several people arrive who were turned away because they did not have reservations and there was no room.


Next: Days 14-15 San Jose and home