La Fortuna/Arenal: Days 5 - 7

What did we do?

Day 5 - We arrived in La Fortuna late in the afternoon and after checking in to the Monte Real Hotel we took a walk around town through shopping areas, and Fortuna Park. There were many tourists here, but despite that it felt like a real Costa Rican town and not just a tourist trap.

That being said, I had a bit of a love-hate relationship with the Arenal area. The scenery is beautiful and the birds are plentiful, but the roads around La Fortuna are lined with billboards for places to eat, tours to take, and ziplines to zip on. There are buses and buses full of people going from one sight to another, and everything here costs money; sometimes it felt like a Costa Rica Disneyland.

Day 6 - We woke up in the morning to significant cloud and Arenal Volcano was only 1/3 visible. Hoping for a change of weather we drove to Arenal Observatory Lodge. It cost $12 per person to park at the observatory. We spent most of the day here walking the trails and there were very few people. It rained on and off and Arenal, always looming over us, revealed itself in varying degrees throughout the day. We saw at least a dozen different bird species, including a large tree containing multiple Montezuma Oropendola nests, spider monkeys, and a troop of coatis.

Hanging Bridge at Arenal Observatory Lodge

Danta Waterfall, Arenal Observatory Lodge

Arenal

A troop of Coatis at Arenal Observatory Lodge, with the loopy, bubbling sounds of Montezuma Oropendola's.

On our way back to La Fortuna we stopped off at the free hot springs in the river opposite Tabacon Hot Springs, 12 km outside of La Fortuna. It's really easy to find as there are lots of cars parked on the side of the road and you just follow the people down to the river. We sat in the warm pools and watched howler monkeys playing in the trees. We went two times during our stay: once late in the day, and the other in the middle of the day. There were definitely less people earlier in the day.

Free river hot springs opposite the Tabacon

Day 7 - With only 1/2 day left at Arenal, and knowing we had lots of rainforest destinations ahead of us, we decided to skip some of the other things at Arenal like the waterfall hike and Arenal National Park. Instead, we set off after breakfast for a drive around the area. We ended up at Mistico Hanging Bridges about 20 km outside La Fortuna. We were delighted to find that parking here is free, and so we spent some time enjoying the view of the volcano from their observation deck. I am sure it is beautiful inside but the parking lot and was packed with tourist buses and the observation deck with tourists. Perhaps it is the cynic in me speaking, but it I couldn't help but thinking about Tarzan's Treehouse, as we watched people preparing to go in.

View from the observation deck at Mistico Hanging Bridges

On our way back to La Fortuna we stopped by the free river hot springs. It was mid-day and so the road parking was easy, and there were very few people in the river. We returned to our hotel mid-day, packed up, ate lunch and started the 1.5-hour drive to La Selva Biological Research Station at Sarapiqui.

Where did we stay?

Monte Real Hotel  ($112 per night). The rooms at Monte Real were clean and adequate, with comfortable beds, and AC, but it is nothing to rave about. We did however enjoy its location right in the centre of town and their tropical gardens on the edge of the ravine overlooking the river.

If I ever go back to La Fortuna, I would definitely splurge and stay at Arenal Observatory Lodge. The property, right at the foot of the volcano, is spectacular with gorgeous views over the lake, abundant bird life, and many walking trails.

The garden and pool at Monte Real Hotel

Where did we eat?

Breakfast: The hotel serves breakfast at the restaurant next door. You have a choice of four different set breakfasts that are reasonably good. The only downside is it is right on the main road and trucks roar past. We had a bonus experience the first morning, not only did the trucks roar past, but workers were using a tile cutting machine across the street.

Lunch:  On day 6 we ate lunch at Arenal Observatory Lodge ($49). The setting of the restaurant is spectacular, sitting at the foot of the volcano and overlooking Lake Arenal. I ate a pretty decent hamburger and french fries. On our second day we walked over to Musmanni Bakery and picked up some empenadas, and pastries for lunch. They were fresh and tasty.

Dinner: Both nights we had dinner at Soda Viquez. The portions were large, and the meals were ok, but not memorable.

Next: Days 7-8 Sarapiqui/La Selva Biological Research Station